Library of Celsus

Topkapi Palace

Bosphorus

Goreme church

Cave hotel suite

Underground city of Kaymakli

Hagia Sofia mosaic

Urgup cave homes

Turkey, with its wonderfully hospitable people, is one of our favorite destinations. We just returned from a two week planning visit in anticipation of our 2 scheduled trips next year. Here’s what we learned and saw.

At the U.S. Consulate in Istanbul, we met with Greg Taevs, the Principal Commercial Officer, who has spent the last 3 years representing us in Turkey. We had a fascinating discussion with him on a range of political and economic topics.

He told us that the Armenian genocide issue impacts everything in Turkey. Turks are a bit suspicious of the U.S.’ position on this issue. They can’t be neutral about the Kurds or Armenians, so if their friend, the U.S., seems to be accusing them of genocide (as in frequent resolutions proposed in Congress), they think we are stabbing them in the back. They point to the many Armenians currently working in Turkey and the good relations they have with them.

Fuel costs $10 to $13 per gallon, partly as a revenue source for the government, which has trouble collecting regular taxes. They know they can collect the gas tax.

Right now, there is no strong opposition party. But, the pendulum may be swinging back from fundamentalist leanings. Turkey’s economy is doing well this year. There was a big crisis in 2001, with runs on banks and a financial crisis. The IMF came in and restructured the economy. From 2003 on, there has been 6 to 8% annual growth. The global meltdown of 2008 affected Turkey also, but there have been no bank failures. Reform has worked. Banks are very conservative. Growth in 2010 may be 4%.

The opposition party is gaining some momentum, with its new leader. Turks have no real affinity with Iran. Many people don’t like the current government’s moves to befriend Iran. Turks are pleased that their country is gaining influence in the world. They see the mingling of religion and government policy as not so different from the U.S. under the Bush Administration.

As we traveled around Turkey, driving nearly 1200 miles, we talked to many Turks. Without exception, they do not like the current government, which they believe is bringing too much religion into the public sector. They do not like the rapprochement with Iran. They believe the government is very corrupt. But—many people approve of their economic policies and believe this government has made Turkey a stronger force in the world and has managed the economy very effectively. Despite what we heard, the majority of voters have elected the Islamist government twice, so someone must like it.

We spent 2 days on a Turkish yacht, called a gulet, cruising near the town of Gocuk on the Turquoise Coast. We hiked, swam, visited Lycian and Roman ruins, had sage tea with a farmer on the mountainside, relaxed on huge cushions, ate wonderfully fresh food, and tasted delicious Turkish wines. The clear water ranges from turquoise to deep blue and the sunsets over the islands scattered throughout the Mediterranean are lovely.

The gulets have tiny, but comfortable, cabins, with private bathrooms. All activity takes place on deck, however, with huge cushions that encourage a nap, outside dining, and inviting places to relax in the sun or read in between swimming and excursions.

Outside of Kusadasi, on the Aegean Coast, we had lunch under the trees with the owner of a carpet factory who hires local artisans to make the carpets he sells in his shop. He talked at length about the craft of weaving and knotting carpets, as well as giving us his views on the government, Turkish history, and relations with the rest of the world.

In Cappadocia, east of Turkey’s capital of Ankara, we rented a car and drove from town to town and up to the Black Sea, taking back roads through mountains and villages and along the Black Sea Coast. Everywhere, people are cordial and welcoming.

Cappadocia is the region of limestone cliffs and chimneys where people have lived in cave homes for thousands of years. There are many cave hotels, with luxurious interiors, catering to the tens of thousands of tourists who visit every year. We visited many and chose one for our 2011 trips that we think will delight you.

We also visited several national parks we hadn’t seen before, including the Zelve Outdoor Park, with its narrow valleys lined with cave homes and Byzantine churches carved into the limestone. The rock formations are bizarre and fascinating. Goreme, the most famous National Park, which we will also visit next year, is filled with limestone chimneys housing ancient churches carved inside.

In the town of Goreme, we were served lunch by an Iranian student refugee, who was jailed after the post-election protests last year. He cannot return to Iran, but has not yet found a country that will grant him permanent residency as a political refugee. The UN High Commission for Refugees is trying to help him, but is overwhelmed with refugees from so many countries seeking asylum.

We have finalized (mostly) our itinerary for trips to Turkey in May/June and October of 2011. The October trip is sold out, but does have a waiting list. We have space for several more people on the May/June trip. Check out the itinerary to see what we plan to do and see. We know you will love Turkey, its people, and its rich history and culture.